FASHION: Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week 2012

I love haute couture probably because I like wearing anything that makes me stand out. Whilst I often opt for the 'less is more' look, Paris' haute couture fashion week is usually all about more is more. Here's a round up of my favourite looks last week.

Starting with the show which got most attention this year: Jean Paul Gaultier's Amy Winehouse inspired collection. Controversy aside, seeing a bit of Amy added to some JPG couture brought together two of my favourite things.

My favourite pieces probably were ones that weren't so explicitly 'Winehouse' but just edged with a bit of Amy's dishevelled sex appeal and inimitable style. London-based corset king Mr Pearl was integral to bringing Amy's revamped 50s look to the couture catwalk. 

Pop culture didn't only inspire Mr Gaultier this season, with a hint of celluloid chic taking to several runways. Maxime Simoens' collection channeled Gaspard Noe's Enter the Void, with Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci drawing inspiration from Fritz Lang's Metropolis and a Russian film called Aelita: Queen of Mars (no, us neither). 

Maxime Simoens

Givenchy

Some saw references to Lang's masterpiece in Donatella's Atelier Versace collection as well; just so you know, these dresses make the film in question seem far more exciting than we at DSD's found it to be. Versace was typically sexy and shiny, with its eyes firmly set on the red carpet. If I had to choose one piece, then I'd go all-out Versace glam and rock this little number:

Another designer whose pieces I'm sure will pop up at the Oscars in some shape or form is Elie Saab. The collection was beautifully romantic and ethereal, if perhaps a little safe. Still when you make dresses as beautiful as these we'll let you off.

Armani Prive brought things back down to earth with a collection inspired by 'metamorphosis' and heavily influenced by snakeskin. My stand-out pieces were both modelled by the stunning Michaela Kocianova.

 

Giambattista Valli's collection showcased a wide variety of couture-wear, far less obviously thematic than the other Paris shows. This beautiful printed dress stole the runway for me, bringing both colour and movement centre-stage.

I found Karl Lagerfield's futuristic Chanel collection a little ennuyeux-inducing. However, a few of his evening dresses did get me going. Dior's show was sadly lacking in the ornate theatricality of John Galliano's (slightly deranged) genius. That's not to say Bill Gaytten's collection wasn't choc-full of beautiful dresses and technical masterpieces, however, and it certainly brought some glamour to proceedings. Bouchra Jarrar developed her beautifully smart tailoring, but again it lacked in drama.

Chanel                                                           Christian Dior

My final dresses come from a design-house that I've had a long-time passion for. Valentino, now with Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri at its helm, produced the most beautiful show. Their beautifully layered lace and organza creations perfectly exuded the 'deep lightness' which the designers sought.

So there you have it; DSD's has done the hard work so you don't have to. Now go out and shop!


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