Friday 24 January 2014

FASHION: Haute Couture - S/S 2014

Haute Couture 2014 was the year that saw trainers on the catwalk- not high-heeled, or vertiginously platformed trainers- but real (albeit it diamond studded) running shoes. With this bombshell over with - lets review my picks of the shows...

Valentino - Couture - S/S 2014
Valentino is always one of my favourite couture shows, and this year was no different. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli created a beautiful collection inspired by the rich cultural world of Opera. Every piece was breath-takingly beautiful and romantic - from the sparse, block-coloured dresses to the flowing and ethereal gowns. Lace, feathers and a bit of skin helped make the collection organically sensual.

Alexander Vauthier - Couture - S/S 2014

Alexander Vauthier - Couture - S/S 2014
Alexander Vauthier's show was sexxxy up to the megawatts. Not all of it was to my taste, with leopard print gowns slashed to the thigh and off the shoulder asymettric dresses being the big misses. However his gold necklaces, studded collars and high-necked ruffled mini-dresses caught my eye.

Chanel - Couture - S/S 2014
Chanel - Couture - S/S 2014
Chanel - Couture - S/S 2014

Karl Lagerfield was playful at Chanel this year - sending models down the catwalk in trainers and bejwelled knee protectors- the epitome of sports luxe, I think Chanel bumbags will be mandatory at most gyms this summer. The brilliant craftsmanship on the embellished gowns and lacy tops gave the clothes a delicate, feminine edge and dresses such as the mermaid-like one above kept things effortlessly sexy. Nice one Karl.


Dior - Couture - S/S 2014

Dior - Couture - S/S 2014

I still miss the (kinda offensive) genius of Galliano at Dior, but Raf Simon's directive hand has given the label a new zest of life. The outfits had the same youthful feel as those over at Chanel, and came accesoriesd wiith trainers too! The swingy silhouettes gave the show an injection of fun, against the more classical Dior shapes - vouminous skirts and fitted tops. The window panel motif in many of the outfits reminded me of the mesh and patterns used by Sarah Burton in last year's Alexander McQueen bee-inspried line, which is no bad thing! Finally, Raf put on one show exclusively for students this year, which was a great nod towards the future of fashion. If nothing else, Raf certainly beats Galliano in the PR department...


Elie Saab - Couture - S/S 2014
Elie Saab is often a bit safe for me - but undeniably beautiful. This year's show was particularly pretty, finding inspiration in the works of the Dutch painter Lawrence Alma- Tadema. The above dress was a real stand-out for me, bringing together romance, fairytale and a bit of old-school glamour.

Giambattista Valli - Couture - S/S 2014
Giambattista Valli - Couture - S/S 2014

We could have seen what the models had for breakfast - had they had any - over at Giambattista Valli as he brought the mini-skirt to centre stage. Trademark jewel-rich colours, voluminous skirts and florals all ensured that the show remained true to the Giambattista style. This mint green leaf-motif dress stood out for me however, with its delicate simplicity.

Giorgio Armani Prive - Couture - S/S 2014
Giorgio Armani Prive - Couture - S/S 2014
Giorgio Armani Prive - Couture - S/S 2014

I absolutely LOVED Giorgio Armani Prive's offering for 2014. It blended 20s glamour with exotic influences in pieces which were beautifully luxurious. Sheer fabrics, eastern Oriental embellishments and shimmering blues and silver gave the collection a sophisticated feel in contrast with the frivolity of the Chanel and Dior shows. If I were attending the Oscars this year, I'd die of surprise. I'd then go out and get myself an Armani Prive dress.

Jean Paul Gaultier - Couture - S/S 2014
Jean Paul Gaultier - Couture - S/S 2014
Jean Paul Gaultier
Jean Paul Gaultier always brings a bit of hot fun to the catwalk and this year was no different. Using a butterfly motif across the collection, the pieces were bright, fluttering, enthralling creations; not girly girly butterflies - but wild exotic bugs. The butterfly shirt teamed with red gloves is a look that I'm sure will be recreated for the high street - and i'll be first in line to copy it.
Ralph & Russo - Couture - S/S 2014


Ralph & Russo's collection was a sophisticated affair - with clean shapes and even cleaner whites dominating the runway. However, it was studded with a few sumptuous dresses which kept things exciting. The above red dress is sure to make it to an awards show at one time or another - though it may clash with the carpet.  
       


Ulyana Sergeenko - Couture - S/S 2014
Ulyana Sergeenko - Couture - S/S 2014

The 'femme fatale' who provided the centre piece of Ulyana Sergeenko's collection wore so many outfits she must have been the best dressed person on transport, ever. Ulyana explained the show was a reimagining of a ride on the Orient Express - which I think is a slightly different calibre of locomotive to the Trans-Siberian railway or Southern trains. It was all deliciously fun, like watching Barbara Millicent Roberts (thats Barbie to you) at work.


And finally, here's a few highlights from the other shows... Marco Zanini made his Schiaparelli debut, Stephane Rolland went bright and theatrical and Alexis Mabille made dresses fit for a princess. Enjoy.


Schiaperelli - Couture - S/S 2014
Stephane Rolland - Couture - S/S 2014
Alexis Mabille - Couture - S/S 2014


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